History: the landmark monument of the Appian Way
The Tomb of Caecilia Metella is one of the most imposing and famous monuments on the Appian Way (Via Appia Antica): a massive cylindrical tower in masonry, clad in travertine, that has dominated the third mile of the "queen of roads" for over two thousand years. It has become the very symbol of the Appia and one of the most recognizable images of Rome beyond the walls. Beside it stand a medieval castle and a small church, so that different eras layer over one another in a single place.
The tomb was built in the 1st century BC for Caecilia Metella, daughter of Quinto Cecilio Metello Cretico, a prominent consul and general, and wife of a member of the powerful Crassus family (Crassi). The sheer grandeur of the monument reflects the family's rank: only the highest aristocracy could afford funerary monuments on this scale along Rome's most prestigious consular road.
When a Roman tomb became a castle
One of the most fascinating stories on the Via Appia belongs to what happened more than a thousand years later. In the 14th century (around 1300) the Caetani family turned the ancient tomb into the tower of a fortified castle, the Castrum Caetani. It is a perfect example of how Rome's eras stack on top of one another: a Roman tomb from the 1st century BC became the heart of a medieval fortress guarding one of the most important roads in Italy.
The Caetani were one of the most powerful families of medieval Rome, tied to Pope Boniface VIII (Benedetto Caetani). Putting the solid mass of the mausoleum to work as a watchtower, they could control traffic along the Appian Way and, in practice, levy tolls on anyone entering or leaving Rome from the south.
The area is also known as "Capo di Bove" (Ox Head), a nickname that comes from the frieze of bucrania (ox-skull motifs) decorating the top of the Roman mausoleum. It is an old popular name, proof of just how deeply this monument entered Rome's imagination and its place names.
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What to see
A visit here offers far more than you'd expect: beyond the great Roman tomb, it takes in a medieval castle, a Gothic church, and one of the most beautiful stretches of the Appian Way.
The tower and the bucrania frieze
The heart of the site is the tomb itself: an imposing cylindrical tower of masonry, once crowned by a mound of earth and clad in travertine. A graceful frieze of garlands and bucrania (ox-skull motifs) runs around the top, the decorative theme that earned the area its nickname, "Capo di Bove." Inside lies the burial chamber, now open to the sky.
The Castrum Caetani
Today the medieval castle survives with its crenellated walls and rooms, the tower-mausoleum at its core, and a small exhibition trail of finds and materials recovered along the Via Appia Antica. Visiting it means getting a hands-on feel for the layering of Roman history: the imperial age of the mausoleum, the Middle Ages of the castle and its tolls, and the romantic allure of the Appian Way "rediscovered" between the 18th and 19th centuries by artists and Grand Tour travelers.
The church of San Nicola
Beside the castle stand the remains of the church of San Nicola di Bari (St Nicholas), a rare example of Gothic architecture in Rome, with its pointed-arch windows. Ruined though it is, it keeps a distinct charm and rounds out the complex's medieval picture.
The Circus of Maxentius and the Appian Way
A short distance away lie the Circus of Maxentius, one of the best-preserved Roman circuses, and a gorgeous stretch of Roman paving stones on the Via Appia Antica, lined with more funerary monuments. Together they form a one-of-a-kind archaeological and scenic route.
A good order for the visit:
- Admire the tower of the tomb and the bucrania frieze
- Explore the Castrum Caetani and its exhibition trail
- Take in the Gothic church of San Nicola
- Continue on to the Circus of Maxentius
- Walk the Roman paving stones of the Via Appia Antica
Tickets and opening hours
You visit the Tomb of Caecilia Metella with a ticket that is usually combined with two other major sites in the area, valid for several days, so you can see multiple monuments across the Appia–Caracalla area with one admission. It is a very convenient option if you want to spend a full day in this part of Rome.
The combined ticket usually gives you access to:
| Site | What it is |
|---|---|
| Tomb of Caecilia Metella + Castrum Caetani | The tomb and the medieval castle, with the church of San Nicola / St Nicholas |
| Villa dei Quintili | The enormous imperial villa on the Appian Way |
| Baths of Caracalla (Terme di Caracalla) | The vast thermal complex (plus Santa Maria Nova) |
The site is generally open every day (with a possible weekly closing day), from morning until late afternoon, with hours that change by season (in winter, closing comes earlier). The ticket office usually closes one hour before. Booking is generally not required for the tomb itself.
Prices, validity and exact ticket composition are indicative and can change, so always check the official website before you go.
How to get there
The Tomb of Caecilia Metella stands at the third mile of the Via Appia Antica, inside the vast Appia Antica Regional Park, southeast of central Rome. It sits in a green, atmospheric setting along the famous Roman paving stones, close to other landmarks such as the Circus of Maxentius.
By bus
The most direct option on public transport is the bus: line 118 runs through the Appia Antica area and stops nearby, while other lines reach the area from the Colosseum and Circus Maximus. Service along the Appia isn't very frequent, so check the timetable, especially on weekends.
On foot and by bike
The Appia Antica is a joy to explore on foot or by bike, and the tomb is one of the main stops on a walk along the ancient paving stones. On Sundays, part of the road closes to traffic, making it the perfect time to walk or cycle among the monuments.
By car and with a private driver (NCC)
The Appia Antica is a historic and partly narrow road: driving your own car isn't the best way to enjoy it, and it's off-limits on the pedestrian stretches on Sundays. With a private driver (NCC) the visit is far more comfortable: he drops you right at the site entrance and handles the moves between monuments, ideal for pairing Caecilia Metella with the Villa dei Quintili, the catacombs, or the Baths of Caracalla, all reachable on the same outing.
Practical tips
- Make the most of the combined ticket: one admission covers Caecilia Metella, Villa dei Quintili and the Baths of Caracalla.
- Check the seasonal hours: in winter, closing comes earlier; the ticket office shuts about an hour before the site.
- Plan your transfers: the three sites are far apart, and a private driver makes everything much easier.
- Pick a Sunday for the walk: part of the road closes to traffic, ideal for the paving-stone stretch on foot or by bike.
- Combine nearby stops: the Circus of Maxentius, the catacombs (San Callisto, San Sebastiano) and the Baths of Caracalla all sit on the same route.
The tomb makes a perfect stop along the Appia: pair it with a walk over the Roman paving stones, the catacombs and the other monuments of the road. See the guide to the Appian Way / Via Appia Antica.
Frequently asked questions
What is the Tomb of Caecilia Metella? A great cylindrical tomb from the 1st century BC on the Via Appia Antica, built for Caecilia Metella, a Roman noblewoman. It is one of the landmark monuments of the Appia.
Who was Caecilia Metella? The daughter of the consul Quinto Cecilio Metello Cretico and the wife of a member of the Crassus family (Crassi): the grandeur of the tomb mirrors the rank of her family.
What is the Castrum Caetani? The medieval castle built around 1300 by the Caetani family, which absorbed the tomb and used it as a tower to control the Appian Way, together with the church of San Nicola / St Nicholas.
Why is it called "Capo di Bove"? From the frieze of bucrania (ox-skull motifs) decorating the top of the mausoleum: an old popular nickname for the area, meaning "Ox Head."
How do you visit it, and how much does it cost? With a ticket usually combined with the Baths of Caracalla and the Villa dei Quintili, valid for several days. Prices and validity are indicative: check the official website.
Which bus goes there? Line 118 runs along the Appia Antica and stops nearby; other lines reach the area from the Colosseum and Circus Maximus.
Where is it? On the Via Appia Antica, at the third mile, southeast of central Rome, inside the Appia Antica Regional Park.
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