The Lost Rome in Watercolour
Among Rome's best-loved treasures are the celebrated "Roma sparita" (Vanished Rome) watercolours painted by Ettore Roesler Franz and kept at the Museo di Roma in Trastevere (Museum of Rome in Trastevere). They are dozens of delicate views portraying corners, alleys, banks of the Tiber and glimpses of the city before the great urban transformations of the late 19th century. Looking at them is like leafing through an album of a Rome that no longer exists: a haunting, poetic journey through time that alone is worth the visit.
Who Was Ettore Roesler Franz
Ettore Roesler Franz (1845-1907) was a Roman painter of German descent, a refined watercolourist and a deep connoisseur of his city. Aware that medieval, working-class Rome was about to be swept away by post-unification construction (above all the building of the Tiber embankment walls), he set out to document it before it vanished, creating the "Roma sparita" series. His work combines artistic and documentary value.
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What They Show
The watercolours capture a Rome that has largely disappeared today:
- The alleys and houses of the Ghetto and Trastevere before the redevelopments.
- The banks of the Tiber before the embankment walls were built.
- Shops, trades and scenes of popular life.
- Corners, bridges and churches later demolished or transformed.
These are images of rare delicacy that preserve forever a face of the city otherwise lost.
Why They Matter So Much
The "Roma sparita" series is a unique record: it shows how the city looked before the late-19th-century transformations, when entire neighbourhoods were reshaped. For historians, urban planners and lovers of Rome, these watercolours are an invaluable source; for the visitor, a moving experience. It is the main reason the Museo di Roma in Trastevere deserves a stop.
Where to See Them
The watercolours are kept at the Museo di Roma in Trastevere (in Piazza Sant'Egidio). The display can change due to rotation or current exhibitions: for opening hours and tickets see tickets and hours, and for the full route what to see at the museum.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the "Roma sparita" watercolours? A series of watercolour views by Ettore Roesler Franz portraying corners of Rome that disappeared after the urban transformations of the late 19th century, kept at the Museo di Roma in Trastevere.
Who was Ettore Roesler Franz? A Roman watercolourist of German descent (1845-1907) who documented medieval, working-class Rome before it was swept away, above all by the Tiber embankment walls.
Why is it called "Roma sparita"? Because it portrays a Rome that later vanished: alleys, banks of the Tiber, shops and glimpses demolished or transformed by the works of the late 19th century.
Where can you see them? At the Museo di Roma in Trastevere, in Piazza Sant'Egidio. The display can rotate: check opening hours and current exhibitions on the official website.
Why are they important? They combine artistic and documentary value: they are a unique, poetic testimony of the city before the great urban transformations.
See Also
- Museo di Roma in Trastevere: complete guide
- What to see at the Museo di Roma in Trastevere
- Museo di Roma in Trastevere: tickets and hours
- Trastevere: complete guide
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Article #593 · Category: Museums · Updated: May 2026