At San Paolo fuori le Mura, running along the walls of the nave, you'll find one of the most fascinating and curious features of the basilica: an unbroken row of mosaic medallions with the portraits of every pope, from St Peter all the way to the currently reigning pontiff. It's a true "papal gallery" spanning two thousand years of Church history, updated with each new pope. Walking beneath these glowing roundels, one for every pontiff, is a unique experience.

The legend of the end of the world

The detail that intrigues everyone is a popular tradition: it's said that when all the empty spaces left for new medallions are filled, the end of the world will come. Looking up at the walls, visitors hunt for the still-empty roundels and count how many popes are "missing." It's only a legend, of course — and the spaces are periodically rearranged — but it adds a touch of mystery and a smile. A delightful way to see the history of the popes with fresh eyes.

Want to see the papal medallions and San Paolo fuori le Mura?

My Rome Driver takes you to the basilica with a private driver and waits for your next stop. Fixed price, door to door.

Check availability and get a quote

Reply within 30 minutes · Fixed price · Free cancellation up to 24h before

The history of the medallions

The series of papal portraits has ancient origins, but the current row of mosaic medallions was remade after the devastating fire of 1823 that destroyed much of the basilica. Each medallion depicts a pope with his name; when a new pontiff is elected, his portrait is added. It is therefore a "living" work, one that keeps growing over time: a one-of-a-kind among the churches of Rome.

What to look for during your visit

As you walk the nave, look up and take in:

  • The medallion of St Peter, the first pope, at the start of the series.
  • The portrait of the current pope, the most recent addition.
  • The still-empty spaces (tied to the legend).
  • The unbroken row, linking the entire history of the Church.

It's an engaging way to experience the basilica, especially with children and teens.

Where it is

The medallions run along the nave walls of the Basilica di San Paolo fuori le Mura, in Rome. You can see them for free with basilica admission. For opening times and practical info, see the guide on San Paolo opening times and admission.

Frequently asked questions

What are the papal medallions at San Paolo? A row of mosaic portraits of every pope, from St Peter to the current pontiff, running along the nave of the Basilica di San Paolo fuori le Mura: a unique "papal gallery."

Is the legend of the end of the world true? It's a popular tradition, not an official prophecy: it's said that when all the spaces for new medallions are filled, the end of the world will arrive. The spaces, however, are periodically rearranged.

When are new medallions added? With each election of a new pope, his portrait is added: it's a "living" work that keeps growing over time.

Where do the medallions begin? The series starts with St Peter, the first pope, and continues in order up to the reigning pontiff, along the nave of the basilica.

Can you see them for free? Yes: the medallions are inside the basilica, which has free admission. The cloister, however, requires a small ticket.

See also

Book a driver for San Paolo fuori le Mura

Fixed price · ZTL access · Door to door

Article #451 · Category: Monuments · Updated: May 2026