A square built on an arena
Anyone walking through Piazza Navona is unlikely to suspect they are standing above one of the greatest sports structures of the ancient world. Yet the shape of the square — long, narrow, with rounded ends — is nothing other than the outline of the arena that preceded it by nearly two thousand years.
Domitian's Stadium was built by the emperor Domitian around 86 AD to host the ludi graeci — Greek-style athletic contests: foot racing, wrestling, discus throwing. It could accommodate approximately 30,000 spectators.
Why a Greek stadium was built in Rome
Until Domitian, Romans preferred circus and gladiatorial games. The Greek stadium was a cultural import: Domitian was fascinated by Hellenic culture and wanted to provide Rome with an arena worthy of Panhellenic competition.
He established the Ludi Agonales — celebrated every four years — and built the stadium to host them. The structure was in practical terms analogous to a modern Olympic stadium, but constructed in tufa and travertine masonry.
The original dimensions
The stadium measured approximately 265 metres in length by 106 metres in width. It was surrounded by continuous tiers on all sides, including both curved ends (the sphendone). The foundations and perimeter of the tiers remain intact beneath the current level of the square.
The medieval name of the square — Circus Agonis — derives directly from its original function.
What can be seen today
Part of the Roman structures are accessible through a visit to the Museum of the Stadium of Domitian (entrance from Via di Tor Sanguigna, opposite number 3). The guided visit leads through:
- The arches and support corridors of the Roman tiers
- The original travertine pillars
- The foundations of medieval buildings erected over the Roman structures
- Sculptural finds and inscriptions from the stadium
The ticket costs approximately €5. The visit lasts 30–45 minutes.
The medieval transformation
After the fall of the Roman Empire, the stadium ceased to function as a sports arena. From the 4th–5th centuries onwards, the tiers were progressively occupied by dwellings: the population literally settled inside the supporting arches. By the 9th–10th centuries the area was already a densely built district.
Medieval and Renaissance buildings exploited the Roman foundations, shaping the entire topography of the area. The palaces that still surround Piazza Navona today — Palazzo Pamphilj, Palazzo Braschi, the houses along the sides — follow the perimeter of the ancient tiers.
The name "Navona"
The etymology of the name is debated. The most widely accepted explanation is a derivation from "in agone" — the activity for which the stadium was built — through the medieval variants "n'agone" → "nagone" → "navone" → "navona". Another medieval name for the square was Circus Agonalis or simply Agona.
The flooded Sunday
A curious summer custom survived until the 19th century: on August Sundays, the fountains were turned to full flow and the drains blocked, transforming the square into a shallow artificial lake a few centimetres deep. Roman noblemen paraded in carriages through the water; commoners cooled themselves down. This practice is described in the memoirs of many Grand Tour travellers, including Charles Dickens.
With a private driver
Reach Piazza Navona by private driver. From your hotel, airport or station — direct and punctual. Service from €49. → Book at myromedriver.com
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it possible to visit the Roman structures beneath the square? Yes, through the Museum of the Stadium of Domitian, with entrance from Via di Tor Sanguigna. Ticket approximately €5; guided visits available.
How deep are the Roman remains beneath the square? The Roman structures lie approximately 5–8 metres below the current street level. The rise in ground level is due to centuries of deposits, rubble and successive rebuilding.
Was the original arena open-air or covered? Open-air, as were almost all sports facilities in classical antiquity. Competitions were held outdoors.
Article no. 143 — TIER S — MON-08 Piazza Navona Type: HISTORICAL Words: ~700