When a Roman tomb becomes a castle

One of the most fascinating stories on the Via Appia Antica belongs to the Castrum Caetani: the medieval castle that, in the 14th century, absorbed the ancient Tomb of Caecilia Metella and turned it into its own tower. It's a perfect example of how Rome's eras stack on top of one another: a Roman tomb from the 1st century BC became, more than a thousand years later, the heart of a fortress guarding one of the most important roads in Italy.

The Caetani family

The Caetani were one of the most powerful families of medieval Rome, tied to Pope Boniface VIII (Benedetto Caetani). Around 1300 they built a fortified complex here, putting the solid mass of the mausoleum to work as a watchtower. The castle let them control traffic along the Appian Way and, in practice, levy tolls on anyone entering or leaving Rome from the south.

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"Capo di Bove": the area's nickname

The area around the castle is also known as "Capo di Bove" (Ox Head), a nickname that comes from the frieze of bucrania (ox-skull motifs) decorating the top of the Roman mausoleum. It's an old popular name, proof of just how deeply this monument entered Rome's imagination and its place names.

What to see in the complex

  • The crenellated walls and the rooms of the Caetani castle.
  • The tower-mausoleum, the core of the fortress, with its frieze of bucrania.
  • The remains of the Gothic church of San Nicola / St Nicholas, beside the castle.
  • An exhibition route with finds and materials recovered along the Via Appia Antica.

A place to read the history of Rome

Visiting the Castrum Caetani means getting a hands-on feel for the layering of Roman history: the imperial age of the mausoleum, the Middle Ages of the castle and its tolls, and the romantic allure of the Appian Way "rediscovered" between the 18th and 19th centuries by artists and Grand Tour travelers. Few places tell the story of Rome's thousand-year continuity so well.

Frequently asked questions

What is the Castrum Caetani? The medieval castle built around 1300 by the Caetani family on the Via Appia Antica, which absorbed the Tomb of Caecilia Metella and used it as a tower to control the road.

Who were the Caetani? A powerful family of medieval Rome, tied to Pope Boniface VIII, who built this fortress to control traffic along the Appian Way and levy tolls.

Why is it called "Capo di Bove"? From the frieze of bucrania (ox-skull motifs) decorating the top of the Roman mausoleum: an old popular nickname for the area, meaning "Ox Head."

What can you see today? The castle's crenellated walls, the tower-mausoleum, the remains of the Gothic church of San Nicola, and an exhibition route with finds from the Appian Way.

Can you visit it together with the mausoleum? Yes: the Castrum Caetani is part of the same site as the Tomb of Caecilia Metella, with a single ticket.

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Article #496 · Category: Monuments · Updated: May 2026