A square born from an arena
Piazza Navona has the elongated oval shape that immediately sets it apart from any other Italian square. This is no accident: the ground beneath it is Domitian's Stadium, an athletics arena built by the emperor in 86 AD, capable of holding 30,000 spectators. The Roman tiers are still visible below street level, and part of them can be visited.
The name "Navona" most likely derives from a corruption of "in agone", from the Greek term for athletic contests (agon).
The Baroque heart of Rome
In the 17th century Piazza Navona became the principal stage for Roman Baroque taste. Pope Innocent X (of the Pamphilj family) transformed the square into the site of one of the most celebrated artistic commissions of the era: in 1651 the Fountain of the Four Rivers by Gian Lorenzo Bernini was inaugurated at the centre of the square. On either side stand the Fountain of the Moor (south) and the Fountain of Neptune (north), both from the 16th century and later modified.
The Church of Sant'Agnese in Agone (Francesco Borromini, 1652–1672) faces the square, the direct stylistic rival of Bernini's work.
The Fountain of the Four Rivers
The fountain is the square's most celebrated work and one of the masterpieces of Roman Baroque. An artificial travertine rock emerges from an octagonal basin; upon it rest four gigantic allegorical figures representing the rivers Nile (Africa), Ganges (Asia), Danube (Europe) and Río de la Plata (Americas).
At the centre rises an Egyptian obelisk — brought back to Rome in the 16th century — crowned by a dove with an olive branch, symbol of the Pamphilj family. Popular legend holds that one of the fountain's figures shields its eyes from Borromini's façade of Sant'Agnese, as a sign of rivalry. But the fountain was inaugurated before the façade was completed.
What to see in the square
| Element | Notes |
|---|---|
| Fountain of the Four Rivers | Centre of the square, Bernini 1651 |
| Fountain of the Moor | South end, with Moor wrestling a dolphin |
| Fountain of Neptune | North end, Neptune surrounded by sea creatures |
| Sant'Agnese in Agone | Borromini's concave façade, free entry |
| Palazzo Pamphilj | Adjacent to the church, today the Brazilian embassy |
| Domitian's Stadium (below) | Accessible ruins with ticket (~€5) |
When to go
The square is open 24 hours a day. The experience changes dramatically depending on the time:
- Early morning (7:00–9:00) — nearly empty, raking light enhances the fountains
- Daytime — busy with tourists, cafés and restaurants enliven the arcades
- Evening — evocative with the fountains illuminated
- Night — the square stays lively until late
Avoid antique market Sundays and summer weekends, when the square reaches peak crowding. The Christmas market (December) is a Roman tradition, though in recent years it has become very commercial.
Practical information
| Item | Detail |
|---|---|
| Access | Free (public square) |
| Opening hours | Always open |
| Sant'Agnese church | Free, variable hours (approx. 9:00–19:00) |
| Domitian's Stadium | ~€5, guided visit with booking |
| ZTL zone | Yes — no car access |
| Parking | Multi-storey car parks in the Lungotevere area |
How to get there
- On foot from the Pantheon: 5 minutes
- On foot from Campo de' Fiori: 10 minutes
- Bus 40, 46, 62, 64, 70 — Corso del Rinascimento stop
- Private driver: the area is ZTL, but drop-off is in nearby streets with a short walk
With a private driver
Reach Piazza Navona by private driver. From your hotel, airport or station — direct and punctual. Service from €49. → Book at myromedriver.com
Frequently Asked Questions
Has Piazza Navona always looked like this? No. For centuries it was used as a market, as an arena for tournaments, and as a water basin on summer Sundays (flooded for popular entertainment). The current arrangement with three fountains dates from the 17th century.
Can you enter the fountains or touch them? No. The fountains are protected. Violators risk administrative fines.
Is the Christmas market worth it? Depends on expectations. It is a Roman tradition, but very commercial. Those looking for authentic craftsmanship may be disappointed. The square itself, however, is beautiful in December.
Article no. 141 — TIER S — MON-08 Piazza Navona Type: PRACTICAL Words: ~700