The tradition
The Christmas Market at Piazza Navona is one of Rome's most deep-rooted traditions. It takes place every year from December until 6 January (Epiphany) and transforms the square into an environment completely different from the rest of the year.
The tradition dates back to the seventeenth century, when the square was already the centre of Roman popular life. The fair is dedicated to the Befana — the Italian folkloric figure who on the night of 5 January brings gifts to good children and coal to naughty ones — and maintains this original connection.
What to find at the market
Sweet stalls: nougat, roasted chestnuts, candyfloss, hot chocolate, candied fruit, spiced biscuits.
Toys and Christmas gifts: the market is historically oriented towards children, with stalls selling Befana stockings, rattles, figurines and soft toys.
Crafts: nativity scenes in various sizes, figurines, handmade Christmas decorations.
Rides and attractions: a few children's rides are always present. The number of attractions has varied over the years.
Lights: the square is lit with Christmas lights that transform it completely in the evenings.
When to go
Weekday mornings: less crowded, quieter, ideal for families with young children.
Saturday and Sunday afternoons: maximum crowds. Almost impossible to move comfortably.
Evenings (from 5:30 pm onwards): the lights are on, the atmosphere is at its peak, but the crowd is intense.
24–26 December and 5–6 January: peak days. Avoid if crowds are a problem.
Prices
Entry to the market is free. Stall prices are on the higher side for Italian Christmas markets. Expect €3–6 for individual sweets, €10–30 for craft items, €2–3 for rides.
The quality question
The Piazza Navona market has received some criticism in recent years for the presence of non-artisanal products and generic gifts. The original craft component has diminished compared with the past. It remains a folkloric event with great atmosphere, especially in the evenings and especially for children.
For higher-quality Christmas crafts, alternative Roman Christmas markets (at EUR, Villa Borghese or other neighbourhoods) may offer a more carefully curated selection.
Piazza Navona vs. other Roman Christmas markets
| Feature | Piazza Navona | Alternative markets |
|---|---|---|
| Atmosphere | Historic, intense | Quieter |
| Crowds | Very high | Moderate |
| Crafts | Mixed | Often more selective |
| Child-friendly | Excellent | Good |
Practical tips
- Arrive on foot or by public transport. There is no convenient parking nearby
- Bring small change: many stalls prefer cash
- Dress appropriately for December–January evenings: it can be very cold
- Do not leave children unsupervised in heavy crowds
With a private driver
Arrive at Piazza Navona with a private driver. From your hotel, airport or station — direct and on time. Service from €49. → Book at myromedriver.com
Frequently asked questions
Is the market always open in December? The market generally opens in early December (sometimes 8 December) and closes on 6 January. Stall hours vary: usually from 10:00 am to 9:00–10:00 pm.
Does the Befana really bring gifts at the Piazza Navona market? The Befana figure is present in the market tradition, with stalls selling stockings and typical sweets. It is not an official event with a physical Befana, but the atmosphere is strongly connected to this tradition.
Has the market changed over the years? Yes. In recent decades it has lost some of its traditional craft component and become more commercial. It remains, however, a characteristic experience of winter Rome.
Article n. 155 — TIER S — MON-08 Piazza Navona Type: PRACTICAL Words: ~700